Defects in the appearance of tissues. Formation of the properties of textile products at different stages of their production

Chapter 5 Technological Aspects of Weaving

The presence of defects in finished garments can lead to a decrease in the grade of products and even to marriage, therefore, when cutting, defects are tried to be eliminated. Defects can occur due to thread breakage, equipment disorder, violation of the technological regime or dishonest work of maintenance personnel. Weaving defects include:

Blizna- a defect consisting in the absence of one or more warp threads.

span- a defect consisting in the absence of one or more weft threads over the entire width of the fabric or in a limited area of ​​it.

Double- a defect in the form of two or more warp or weft threads woven or interlaced instead of one.

Diving- violation of the weave in short sections due to the non-interlacing of the weft threads with the warp threads and their sagging in the form of strokes.

Knotting- several nearby incorrectly interlaced, including broken threads along the warp and weft in a short section.

Knocked down drawing- violation of the weave of the fabric pattern as a result of incorrect threading into the shaft or into the eyes of the faces of the jacquard machine or reed.

Zaboina- a strip across the entire width of the fabric due to the increased density of the fabric in the weft.

Undercut- a strip across the entire width of the fabric due to the reduced weft density of the fabric.

notch– separation of the warp threads due to a violation of the density of the teeth of the reed.

Violation of tissue integrity- a fabric defect in which the warp and (or) weft threads are destroyed.

Tweezers- violation of the integrity of the warp or weft threads in a short section as a result of the removal of a foreign object or knot.

Zebrist- a defect consisting in the presence in the fabric of areas of small length along the warp and weft, arising from different linear density of threads.

Thickened threads- the presence in the fabric of warp and (and) weft threads having a higher linear density than the threads of the main background of the fabric.

Local thickening– the presence of thickened warp and/or weft threads in short sections.

The assessment of the grade of cotton, linen, woolen and silk fabrics consists of the discrepancy between the actual quality indicators and the standards established in the standards for a particular type of fabric and the presence of defects in appearance.

Defects in appearance are divided into local and widespread. A local defect occupies a small area of ​​the fabric (for example, a plait), and a widespread defect is evenly distributed over the entire piece of fabric (for example, contamination with plant impurities).

Depending on the fibrous composition, there are features in the assessment of the grade of fabric. The grade of fabric is evaluated according to four standards:

1. GOST 161–86. Cotton fabrics, blended and chemical fiber yarns. Definition of sorting.

2. GOST 357–75. Linen and semi-linen fabrics (mixed). Definition of sorting.

3. GOST 358–82. Fabrics are pure wool and semi-woolen. Definition of sorting.

4. GOST 187–85. Silk and semi-silk fabrics. Definition of sorting.

Cotton fabrics.

Two grades 1 and 2 are installed on the fabric. The grade of fabric is determined by the total assessment of physical and mechanical indicators and defects in appearance:

Psum \u003d Pfm + Pr + Pm.(4.1)

Fabrics of the 1st grade in terms of physical and mechanical parameters must comply with the requirements of the regulatory and technical documentation for this type of fabric.

For fabrics of the 2nd grade, deviations are allowed in the following physical and mechanical parameters from the norms established for the 1st grade: in width (1–1.5%), in density (2%), in surface density (5%) and breaking load (5%).

Deviation in any of these indicators (within the limits allowed by this standard) is conditionally equated to a certain number of conditional defects ( Pfm).

All cotton fabrics are divided into 4 groups depending on the purpose:

I - dress fabrics (including chintz, coarse calico, printed satin), clothing (including raincoat), furniture;

II - linen fabrics bleached, dyed and printed (including jacquard, for corsetry, women's and bed linen); fabrics for waffle and smooth towels; terry fabrics;

III - lining fabrics, mattress ticks and pillowcases; canvas tent and raincoat military assortment; commercial raw fabrics; fabrics using low grades of cotton; To assess the fabric for the presence of defects, the entire piece of fabric is viewed from the front side and the number of local defects along the entire length of the piece is counted. And since the pieces have different lengths, the number of defects is recalculated ( pf) by the conditional length of the fabric in the piece. The nominal length is set by this standard depending on the width of the fabric.

The assessment of each actual local defect (equating it to a certain number of conditional defects) is made depending on its size and tissue group (according to the tables of this standard).

In fabrics of the 1st grade, common defects are not allowed; in fabrics of the 2nd grade, no more than one common defect is allowed. Each acceptable common vice is conditionally equated to a certain number of conditional defects ( Etc).

The total number of conditional defects per conditional length of a piece should not exceed:

10 - for the 1st grade;

30 - for the 2nd grade.

The standard gives a list of defects that are not allowed and are subject to an actual or conditional cut or cut.

In fabrics intended for retail, the actual cuts and cuts are made.

linen fabrics

Two grades are installed on the fabric: 1 and 2nd.

The grade of fabric is determined by physical and mechanical indicators and defects in appearance and is set according to the worst indicator.

In terms of physical and mechanical parameters, fabrics of the 1st grade must comply with the requirements established in the regulatory and technical documentation for this type of fabric.

For fabrics of the 2nd grade, deviations in some physical and mechanical parameters from the norms established for fabrics of the 1st grade are allowed: in width (1.5%), in surface density (5%), in density (2%) and in breaking load (5%).

To assess the grade by the presence of defects in the appearance of fabrics, depending on the purpose, they are divided into the following types (groups):

1 - dining, 2 - linen, 3 - towel, 4 - clothes, 5 - decorative, 6 - applied and packing, 7 - technical. The entire piece of fabric is examined and the number of local defects is counted, and then they are recalculated for a conditional fabric area of ​​30 m 2 .

Pus \u003d Pf 3 10 3 / (L B),(4.3)

where pf- the actual number of defects; L– piece length, m; AT- fabric width, cm.

For fabrics of the 1st grade from linen yarn, the number of defects on an area of ​​30 m 2 should not exceed 8, for fabrics of the 2nd grade - 22; for fabrics using flax yarn: 10 - for the 1st grade; 26 - for the 2nd grade.

In fabrics of the 1st grade, common defects are not allowed; in fabrics of the 2nd grade, no more than one common defect is allowed. If there is a widespread defect in the fabrics of the 2nd grade, the permissible number of local defects per conditional area of ​​​​30 m 2 is reduced and should not exceed 17.

Woolen fabrics

Two grades are installed on the fabric: 1 and 2nd. The grade of fabric is determined by physical and mechanical parameters, indicators of color fastness and the presence of defects in appearance and is set according to the worst indicator.

Fabrics of the 1st grade in terms of physical and mechanical parameters must comply with the requirements of regulatory and technical documentation for a specific type of fabric.

For fabrics of the 2nd grade, deviations from the minimum norms of the 1st grade are allowed in a number of indicators: in terms of density, breaking load, breaking elongation, surface density (no more than half of the allowable deviation established for the 1st grade), shrinkage after locking or wet ironing (1-1.5%), by percentage of wool fibers (1-5%), by percentage of fat (1.5-2.5%). For fabrics of the 2nd grade, a deviation from the norms of the 1st grade is allowed for no more than one of the above indicators.

In terms of color fastness, fabrics of the 1st grade must comply with the requirements established in the regulatory and technical documentation for a specific type of fabric. For fabrics of the 2nd grade, a decrease in color fastness by no more than two types of exposure by 1 point from the norms established for the 1st grade is allowed, the value of the indicator should be at least 3 points.

Looking through the entire piece of fabric, count the number of defects along the entire length of the piece and then recalculate them for the conditional length of the piece of 30 m.

The number of local defects per conditional length of a piece of fabric 30 m should not be more than:

12 - for fabrics of the 1st grade; 36 - for fabrics of the 2nd grade.

In fabrics of the 2nd grade, in the presence of deviations in physical and mechanical parameters and (or) color stability, the permissible number of local defects is reduced. Common defects in fabrics of the 1st grade are not allowed. In the presence of a widespread defect, the allowable number of local defects varies from 2 to 12 (depending on the type of widespread defect).

Silk fabrics

There are three grades on the fabric: 1, 2, 3. The grade of fabric is determined by the total score ( Psum) in terms of physical and mechanical indicators and defects in appearance (similar to cotton fabrics).

According to the physical-mechanical and physico-chemical parameters, fabrics of the 1st grade must comply with the regulatory and technical documentation for a specific type of fabric. For fabrics of the 2nd and 3rd grades, deviations from the norms established for fabrics of the 1st grade in terms of width and density are allowed. Permissible deviations for the 3rd grade are greater than for the 2nd. Deviations within acceptable limits are conditionally equated to a certain number of conditional defects (for the 3rd grade, the number of conditional defects is 18, for the 2nd - 8).

Quality assessment by the presence of local defects is made depending on the tissue group. Silk fabrics in accordance with the purpose are divided into four groups:

1 - fabrics for dresses, dresses and suits, blouses, suits, coats, shirts, raincoats, jackets, for sportswear, textile haberdashery;

2 - fabrics for lining, blankets, furniture, for shoes, hats, corsetry, pajamas, swimwear, marking;

3 - pile fabrics: for outerwear, dresses, for banners; 4 - pile fabrics: for the top of shoes, toys, carpets, lining, insulated shoes.

Local defects are counted on the entire length of a piece of fabric, and then recalculated for the conditional length of the fabric in a piece. The conditional length is set by this standard depending on the width of the fabric and its group.

In fabrics of the 1st grade, common defects are not allowed. In fabrics of the 2nd grade, no more than one noticeably pronounced common defect is allowed; in fabrics of the 3rd grade, no more than one pronounced widespread defect is allowed. Noticeably pronounced and pronounced defects are evaluated by samples. The presence of a widespread defect is conditionally equated to a certain number of conditional defects.

The total number of defects for fabrics of the 1st and 2nd groups should not exceed: 7 - for the 1st grade; 17 - for the 2nd grade; 30 - for the 3rd grade.

For fabrics of the 3rd and 4th groups: 5 - for the 1st grade; 9 - for the 2nd grade; 25 - for the 3rd grade.

Local defects in accordance with the standard are estimated at 0.5-8 points, depending on the type, purpose of the tissue and size, significance of the defect. For example, the local defect "oil thread on the weft" is estimated in cotton clothing fabrics 5 points, in cotton lining - 2 points, in silk lining - 4 points.

Fabrics of the 1st grade may have one or two local minor defects, each of which is estimated at 1-2 points.

Gross local defects in appearance in pieces of fabric intended for trade are not allowed. For example, in silk fabrics stains of more than 1 cm are not allowed, in pile fabrics - areas where there is no pile. Areas with gross defects are either cut out from a piece of tissue, or a piece of tissue is cut if the size of a gross defect is less than 2 cm. The number of cuts and cuts in a piece is limited by standards.

In fabrics intended for industrial processing, gross local defects are not cut out, but are marked at the beginning and end of the defect with threads near the edge as a conditional cut (with white threads and the mark "B") or as a conditional cut (with a red thread and the mark "P"). The number of actual cuts or conditional cuts must comply with the requirements of the fabric grade standard.

The number of local defects may be more or less depending on the length of the piece, i.e. in order for two pieces of different lengths to be rated with the same grade, the shorter piece must have fewer flaws rated by the same number of points.

Common defects are assessed a large number points than local defects. In cotton fabrics, each common defect is scored 11 points. In silk fabrics, for a common defect, they give from 8 to 18 points, depending on the severity of the defect and the tissue group. For example, the knotty and clogged yarn in a silk dressing fabric is estimated at 18 points, and in a silk lining - 8 points. In fabrics of the 1st grade, common defects are not allowed.

In cotton, linen fabrics of II grade, no more than one common defect is allowed. In plain-dyed woolen fabrics of grade II, no more than one common defect is allowed, and in fabrics with a printed pattern, no more than two common defects. In grade II silk fabrics, only one markedly pronounced widespread defect is allowed, assessed according to the sample, and in grade III fabrics - one pronounced common defect. In linen fabrics of grade II, the number of local defects on a conditional area of ​​30 m2 should not exceed a value estimated at 17 points.

In woolen, silk and linen fabrics for clothing, defects located at the edge are not taken into account when determining the grade. In cotton fabrics of the 1st grade, produced on pneumatic looms, fringe on the edge is allowed.

Evaluation of the color fastness of fabrics is carried out after laboratory tests. The test tissues are exposed to light, a solution of soap, water, a solution that simulates sweat. Fabrics are subjected to dry cleaning, ironing, friction. The type of impact is chosen depending on the fibrous composition and purpose of the fabric. Under the influence of these factors, the fabric changes color. The degree of color loss is assessed by comparing the fabric with reference color scales. The first sample of each scale has its original color, the color of subsequent samples changes to a certain extent. The change is evaluated in points. The more stable the color, the higher the score. Depending on the color fastness, fabrics can be ordinary, durable and extra durable dyeing. On the. For example, for dark woolen fabrics, the following standards for resistance to light are established: especially strong dyeing of the fabric is estimated at 7 points, durable dyeing - b points, ordinary - 5 points.

Deviations from the norms of dyeing strength are not allowed for cotton, linen and silk fabrics of the 1st grade. Woolen fabrics of the 1st grade may have deviations from the norms for dyeing strength, estimated at 1 point.

After identifying all deviations from the normative indicators of physical and mechanical properties, color fastness, defects in appearance and evaluating all defects in points, the grade of a piece of fabric is determined. To do this, sum up the scores for all three groups of quality indicators. This total number of points determines the grade of fabric. Depending on the fibrous composition, the number of points for fabrics of 1, 11, III grades is different. In table. 2 indicates the total number of points allowed per piece of fabric of each grade.

table 2

Allowed number of points for fabrics of different grades

End of work -

This topic belongs to:

General information about fibers. Fiber classification. Main properties of fibers and their dimensional characteristics

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All topics in this section:

Lecture 1
Introduction. Fibrous materials 1. Aims and objectives of the course "Materials Science of Sewing Production". 2. General information about

cotton fiber
Cotton is the name given to the fibers that cover the seeds of the annual cotton plant. Cotton is a heat-loving plant that consumes a large amount of moisture. Grows in hot areas. Izv

Natural fibers of animal origin
The main substance that makes up natural fibers of animal origin (wool and silk) are animal proteins synthesized in nature - keratin and fibroin. Difference in molecular structure

Natural silk
Natural silk is called the thin continuous threads secreted by the glands of silkworm caterpillars during the curling of the cocoon before pupation. The main industrial value is domesticated mulberry silk.

B. Chemical fibers
The idea of ​​creating chemical fibers found its embodiment at the end of the 19th century. thanks to the development of chemistry. The prototype of the process of obtaining chemical fibers was the formation of a silkworm thread

artificial fibers
Artificial fibers include fibers made from cellulose and its derivatives. These are viscose, triacetate, acetate fibers and their modifications. Viscose fiber is made from cellulose

Synthetic fibers
polyamide fibers. Capron fiber, which is used most widely, is obtained from coal and oil processing products. Under the microscope, polyamide fibers are

inorganic fibers
In addition to those already listed, there are fibers from natural inorganic compounds. They are divided into natural and chemical. Asbestos-tonkovol belongs to natural inorganic fibers.

Types of textile threads
The basic element of a fabric or knitted fabric is a thread. According to the structure, textile threads are divided into yarn, complex threads and monofilaments. These threads are called primary

Basic spinning processes
The fibrous mass of natural fibers after collection and primary processing enters the spinning mill. Here, a continuous strong thread is produced from relatively short fibers - yarn. This p

Weaving
Fabric is a textile fabric formed by weaving two mutually perpendicular systems of threads on a loom. The process of fabric formation is called weaving.

Fabric finishing
The fabrics removed from the loom are called rough fabrics or rough. They contain various impurities and impurities, have an ugly appearance and are unsuitable for the manufacture of garments.

Cotton fabrics
During cleaning and preparation, cotton fabrics are subjected to acceptance and sorting, singeing, desizing, bleaching (bleaching), mercerization, and napping. Cleaning and

linen fabrics
Cleaning and preparation of linen fabrics is usually carried out in the same way as in cotton production, but more carefully, repeating the operations several times. This is due to the fact that linen

Woolen fabrics
Woolen fabrics are divided into combed (stone) and cloth. They differ from each other in appearance. Combed fabrics are thin, with a clear pattern weaving weave. Cloth - more thick

Natural silk
Cleaning and preparation of natural silk is carried out in the following order: acceptance and sorting, singeing, boiling, bleaching, revitalization of bleached fabrics. When at

Chemical fiber fabrics
Fabrics made from artificial and synthetic fibers do not have natural impurities. They can contain mainly easily washed off substances, such as dressing, soap, mineral oil, etc.

Fibrous composition of fabrics
For the manufacture of clothing, fabrics made from natural (wool, silk, cotton, linen), artificial (viscose, polynose, acetate, copper-ammonia, etc.), synthetic (lavsa

Methods for determining the fibrous composition of tissues
Organoleptic is a method in which the fibrous composition of tissues is established using the sense organs - sight, smell, touch. Evaluate the appearance of the fabric, its touch, creasing

Weaving of fabrics
The location of the warp and weft threads relative to each other, their relationship determine the structure of the fabric. It should be emphasized that the structure of fabrics is influenced by: the type and structure of the warp and weft threads of the fabric

Fabric finishing
Finishing, which gives a marketable appearance to fabrics, affects its properties such as thickness, stiffness, drape, wrinkle, breathability, water resistance, sheen, shrinkage, fire resistance

Fabric Density
Density is an essential indicator of the structure of tissues. Weight, wear resistance, air permeability, heat-shielding properties, stiffness, and drapeability of fabrics depend on density. Each of

Phases of tissue structure
When weaving, the warp and weft threads mutually bend each other, as a result of which they are arranged in waves. the degree of bending of the warp and weft threads depends on their thickness and stiffness, type of p

Fabric surface structure
Depending on the structure of the front side, the fabrics are divided into smooth, pile, pile and felted. Smooth fabrics are those that have a clear weave pattern (coarse calico, chintz, satin). In the process of

Fabric properties
Plan: Geometric properties Mechanical properties Physical properties Technological properties Fabrics made from threads and yarns of various

Geometric Properties
These include the length of the fabric, its width, thickness and mass. The length of the fabric is determined by measuring it in the direction of the warp threads. When laying the fabric before cutting, the length of the piece

Mechanical properties
During the operation of clothing, as well as during the processing of fabrics, they are subjected to various mechanical stresses. Under these influences, tissues stretch, bend, and experience friction.

Physical Properties
The physical properties of tissues are divided into hygienic, heat-shielding, optical and electrical. Hygienic is considered to be the properties of tissues that significantly affect whom

Fabric wear resistance
The wear resistance of fabrics is characterized by their ability to withstand destructive factors. In the process of using garments, they are affected by light, sun, moisture, stretching, compression, torsion.

Technological properties of fabrics
In the process of production and during the operation of clothing, such properties of fabrics are manifested, which must be taken into account when designing clothing. These properties significantly affect the technological

Gasket materials
5. Adhesive materials. 1. RANGE OF FABRICS According to the type of raw materials, the entire range of fabrics is divided into cotton, linen, wool and silk. The silk ones are

Adhesive materials
A semi-rigid interlining fabric with a dotted polyethylene coating is a cotton fabric (coarse calico or madapolam) coated on one side with high pressure polyethylene powder

The choice of materials for a garment
In the production of garments, a variety of materials are used: fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, duplicated, film materials, natural and artificial fur, natural and artificial

Product quality
In the manufacture of clothing and other garments, fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, film materials, artificial leather and fur are used. The totality of these materials is called an assortment

The quality of clothing materials
to make good clothes, you need to use high quality materials. What is quality? The quality of a product is understood as a combination of properties that characterize the degree of suitability

Grade of materials
All materials at the final stage of production are subject to control. At the same time, the quality level of the material is assessed and the grade of each piece is established. Grade refers to the gradation of product quality.

Fabric grade
Great importance has a definition of grade fabrics. The grade of fabric is determined by a complex method for assessing the level of quality. At the same time, deviations of indicators of physical and mechanical properties from the norms,

textile goods

The end of the table. 2.2

On the eighth stage, the correspondence of quality indicators to the markings on the label, as well as the grade of the fabric, are established.

Variety fabrics are determined by a complex method for assessing the level of quality;

In terms of physical and mechanical properties;

Defects in appearance;

Color fastness.

Cotton, linen and woolen fabrics come in grades I and II; silk fabrics -1, II and III grades.

After identifying all deviations from the standard indicators of physical and mechanical properties, color fastness, defects in external

its type and evaluation of all defects in points establish the grade of a piece of fabric; To do this, summarize the scores for all three groups of quality indicators. This total number of points determines the grade of fabric. Depending on the fibrous composition, the number of points for fabrics of grades I, II, III is different. In table. 2.3 indicates the total number of points allowed per piece of fabric of each grade.

For fabric I grade physical and mechanical indicators must comply with the standards specified in the NTD for the fabric. If the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric have at least one deviation from the norm, then the fabric cannot be assessed as grade I and transferred to grade II or III. If the deviation is too large and exceeds the value allowed by the normative document, then the fabric is rejected. Fabrics of different fibrous composition for the same "and the same deviation are assigned different number points. So, deviations from the norms of cotton and linen fabrics are estimated at 11 points. In woolen fabrics, the minimum possible deviations are estimated at 16 points. In silk fabrics, the minimum deviations from the norms are estimated at 8-31 points, depending on the tissue group.

Dedicated appearance defects score points depending on the type, location and prevalence along the entire length of the piece of material. The higher the number of points characterized by the fabric, the lower its quality.

Local defects in accordance with the standard are estimated at 0.5-8 points, depending on the type, purpose of the fabric and size,

Table 2.3 Allowed number of points for fabrics of different grades

* The numerator shows the number of points for fabrics made of natural silk, the denominator - for pile fabrics made of artificial threads.

textile goods

the significance of the defect. For example, the local defect "oil thread on the weft" is estimated in cotton clothing fabrics by 5 points, in cotton lining - 2 points, in silk lining - 4 points.

T grade fabrics may have one or two local minor defects, each of which is rated 1-2 points.

Gross local defects in appearance in pieces of fabric intended for trade are not allowed. For example, in silk fabrics stains of more than 1 cm are not allowed, in pile fabrics - areas where there is no pile. Areas with gross defects are either cut out from a piece of fabric, or a piece of fabric is cut if the size of a gross defect is less than 2 cm. The number of cuts and cuts in a piece is limited by regulatory documents.

Widespread defects are scored higher than local defects. In cotton fabrics, each common defect is scored 11 points. In silk fabrics, for a common defect, they give from 8 to 18 points, depending on the severity of the defect and the tissue group. For example, the lumpiness and clogging of yarn in silk clothing fabric is estimated at 18 points, and in silk lining fabric - 8 points. In fabrics of the 1st grade, common defects are not allowed.

In cotton, linen fabrics of II grade, no more than one common defect is allowed. In plain-dyed woolen fabrics of grade II, no more than one common defect is allowed, and in fabrics with a printed pattern, no more than two common defects. In grade II silk fabrics, only one markedly pronounced widespread defect is allowed, assessed according to the sample, and in grade III fabrics - one pronounced common defect. In linen fabrics of grade II, the number of local defects on a conditional area of ​​30 m 2 should not exceed a value estimated at 17 points.

Deviations from dye strength standards not allowed for cotton, linen and silk fabrics of grade I. Woolen fabrics of grade I may have deviations from the norms for dyeing strength, estimated at 1 point.